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We see a high A road which runs across the river. We had caught glimpses of its wind- ing course when we were flying over the Turkestan Range. Here it rises along the bank of the turbulent Fan Darya, which cuts through the Zeravshan Range.
Again we rise to a higher altitude in order to pick our way between lofty, snow-capped peaks and cross a ridge of rugged, icy crests. Lower down on the wooded slopes and in the narrow valleys there are pastures. Here and there are. We fly over the dry, high-mountain valley of Yagnob, over the flirt dumps of coal mines and the village of Takfon; to the " south-east we see the high-mountain lake Iskander Kul glistening flike a pearl in the mountains.
That' , is.. The mountain , pastures' give way to plots of non-irrigated crops, and later to. The beauty of nature is amazing here, and one longs, to be in- one of those kishlaks, in the shade, of cool apricot orchards,. We catch rapid glimpses of the dirt dumps. Ziddy cop!. Suddenly -RCeiidme-'Upon a town that -fakes up; a. On the; banks pfmarrpw anotinimn 'streams-areifeEhomeS;.
Valley arid it lies much higher, but it is mot. It is still challenged by the. Undulating toot-hills, ploughed. The river Varzob, like the other rivers running parallel with iffrom the range, rushes in a. We, see the smoke from the stack of a cement plant. The entire terrace is-inter- sected by cement-lined canals, and beyond we see a big; beautiful city stretching for many kilometres. It is now n 1U ch' further to the west of us, somewhere between Samarkand and Kitqb, or, perhaps, is approaching Baisun in order, after making the long flight over the Hissar Valley, to arrive here from the west and not from the north as we did, flying by, the straight route.
The train that left Leninabad at the sa me time that we did-is making an even slower and wider detour round all the mountains. Tajik-Soviet Socialist Republic was formed, a quarter of a century ago. In many remote parts of the 1 repub- lic aeroplanes were taken for marvellous birds. The Basmachi who roamed the mountains feared them, but they were welcomed as saviours by snow-bound scientific explorers to whom bundles of food and medi- caments were parachuted.
Absence of roads was the curse of Tajikistan. Before the October Revolution there was not a single kilometre of road in Eastern Bukha- ra, By the time the First Five-Year Plan was started on, three hun- dred and twenty-six kilometres of road had been built, and another thou- sand and three hundred kilometres of road came into being of their own accord, as it were— they were cut by the wheels of carts and of the first motor trucks.
By the end of the five-year plan period the mountains were already intersected by four thousand kilometres of road, and dur- ing the Second Five-Year Plan period, when machines were employed for road-making, the whole of Tajikistan began to be covered by a net- work of motor roads. Jt is interesting to recall that in there were only seventeen auto- mobiles in the republic. Ten years later six thousand automobiles were already speeding along the roads of Tajikistan.
As for the number there now that is known only to the motor-traffic regulation authorities. Heeling steeply. Exactly thirty seconds later the wheels touch the warm ground of the Stalinabad aerodrome. Aircraft carry. Panj and later sent to the Zoos 1 m ail parts-, of. The airmen; there, start an -argument about who in Tajikistan was the first today the air , track to Pamir.
There are many men of the younger generation among the airmen and not. But there is a man -here who was in Horog that morning; on August 18, , when airman Baranov and air-mechanic Yanitsky ' landed their U on the bank of the Panj, -near Horog,.
He made his first flight in Baranov flew at a height of six thousand metres without. In the event of. Today, the Stalinabad-Horog passenger air lineiis safe, the journey takes an hour, and collective farm-' ers -in the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region make frequent trips, to Stalina. Nevertheless,- this track is one of the most difficult in the, world. But it is also the most beautiful. A small ambulance plane lands at the airport. A Tajik woman in a light silk dustcoat enters the dining-room.
She is well known- here. You are holding a bunch of ;Kazanlyk roses. That shows that you have. State Essen- tial Oil Farm. Medical Air Service planes make about a thousand flights a year into the mountains to render medical assistance in urgent cases.
Need- less to say, this service is free of charge, Similar difficult but invaluable work is performed by the Anti-Lo- cust, Anti-Malania and other special branches of the Tajikistan aviation service. Tajik women are also joining the ranks of the airmen, women Who scorn the paranja and take air-training courses at the Stalinabad Aero Club. The first Tajik woman to parachute from an aeroplane was Ulmaskhon Davlyatova; she jumped from a height of metres.
Lola -Yusufbekova, a tenth-grade schoolgirl and Young Communist Leaguer, also became a parachutist. She attended the Youth Festival lin Prague. It is hard to believe that not so very long ago Tajik girls had no right even to learn to read! The Hissar Valley, which we quickly cross, attracts us by its wide cot- ton fields, new orchards recently planted along the offshoots of the Grand Hissar Canal, its farms, agricultural plant-breeding stations, and industrial enterprises, which are linked with the capital by railway and highway.
In the eastern corner of the valley looms the city of Or- jonikidzeabad with its large flour mills and other plants. It was organized only in and is run on the most modern lines. All the operations are mechanized and the mechanisms are driven by electricity, AH around are welLplanned col- ecfive-farm villages, the fields of which adjoin and are ploughed throughout with tractor ploughs. In the spring' there Is no snow on these mountains; it melts and gives a brief span of life to the small rivers which furrow the mountain sides and which in the summer become quite shallow, or dry up completely.
In the' rainy sea-; son all that flows along thfcir beds is liquified clay and pebble stones;. To the right of them, beyond "the. Kafirnigan, lies the Babatag Range. The part of this 'river which runs through Tajikistan. Vakhsh Valley, :a. There is so much-. In fact, everything fs; new. Cotton fields seem to, stretch into, infinity; there are hundreds of big. On the canals ' there,. We are flying overffhe Voroshilov-. In these grounds they are raising trees former lyunknown tin Tajikistan— Eldar -.
Vakhsh; : stretcHesV a :b]-liV ; , district notreached by the canals. The hills are overrun with scrub and reeds, reaching down to the small, clear lakes formed in the dried-up arms of the river. This 'is the famous Tiger Ravine, now a state reservation for wild animals. Our plane does not go on to Ranj, but turns sharply to the east, and passing over this flourishing region crosses at a great height the hot, barren mountain district lying between the Vakhsh and Karasu Rivers.
On the right, along the state frontier spreading in the Panj Val- ley, are the cotton fields of the collective farms in the Kirovabad, Par- khar and Chubek Districts. Their land is also fertile and well cultivated. There ,a state jute farm was recently established, and jute mills are being erected.
The entire valley is just a mass of orchards and vine- yards. One would like to get a closer view of them, but the entire ho- rizon in the south is suddenly blotted out by yellow mist. It is not a storm cloud, It seems as though the southern sky is impregnated with some opaque, yellow, poisonous matter. It raises this dust from the parched soil of Afghanistan, invades our territory, and, sweeping over our fields, kills with its fatal breath the crops wherever there is insufficient water.
It can be combated only if an irrigation system like that in the Vakhsh Valley is built in Afghanistan. The pilot has put on speed. We turn to the north-east to escape the oncoming yellow wall and fly over extensive thickets of pistachio trees scattered over the hills, across the river Karasu, a tributary of the ,Panj, and over the green ex- panses of pasture in its broad valley. In the broad valley of the Yakhsu lies the city of Kulyab, the admin- istrative centre of the region.
We can see its gardens and shady streets, and its oil-crushing and cotton-ginning mills, lit slips past us on the right and we, are' already flying over the mountains of Jilan- Tau and the rich pastures of the Alim-Tad and drawing near to Dan- gara. Motor trucks are carrying the bales along the smooth roads to the barns of ihe livestock farms. We also see places where sheep are being sheared with electric clippers. Among the flocks we seethe masts of collective-farm radio stations.
We see state karakul sheep farms and thorough-bred cattle farms. And here in the villages as everywhere else are the bright, white buildings of schools, collec- five-farm tea-rooms and recreation clubs. Dangara is an immensely rich livestock district where every year hundreds of thousands of cattle are driven for the winter, during the months when snow-storms make the pastures in the high mountains in the Garm and Kulyab Regions untenable.
These mountains rising high- er and higher to the east merge with the highest chains of the Pa- mirs, We saw them in the distance all the time when flying southland now, flying north-east, we are drawing close to them. Slipping away from under Us are Kangurt, Boljuan and Sary-I hasor, district admin- istrative centres in this mountain region, rich in grain and pasture. To the right we see the rice plantations of 'Khovaling. The landscape, intersected by numerous mountain rivers, becomes sterner.
Mountains rise before us, barrier behind barrier, chain behind chain. Our aero- plane makes a steep ascent. Will it surmount these gigantic barriers? Their jagged peaks jut into the very sky, and they are so chaotically sit- uated that it takes a very experienced pilot to wind his way through this maze. Our pilot confidently steers his craft through the first deep gorges of Karategin.
We have come out on to the rack-bound river Vakhsh. Here it is not like the broad, smooth free-flowing river we saw in the Vakhsh Valley. It is a turbulent stream! We look for the sulphur hot springs where; there is a sanatorium,' but it is-. The; road runs-on the edge of the precipices along the Vakhsh, which.
Beyond it the road also- divides- into; two. Each nestles ' on a tiny patch on the river terrace, or at the mouth of. Patches of field, connected with. Surkhob, its white houses, shady streets and green orchards laid out on -a level terrace between the steep slopes. That is Novabad, the administrative centre of the Garm Region.
Beyond it, on, the Surkhob. We have now come quite close to the gigantic mountains. It is not light blue,- or, dark blue,;. But'we 'barely catch sight of it and just. We are flying at a' height of six thousand metres, but- this peak dazzling yvhite.
This is Peak -Stalin, the highest. Could human beings. We have entered the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region. A whole phalanx of immensely high peaks crowds around us, but we push forward and suddenly turn abruptly to the south over a gigantic glacial river stretching from north to south. This lis the Fedchenko Gliacier. The Fedchenko Glacier is the biggest glacier in the middle latitudes of the world.
Unexplored glaciers like at can be found only on the crests of the Kuen-Lun and the Himalayas. In the region of the Fedchenko Glacier basin the mountain chains are covered with neve and ice. They are scarcely broken up; they tower in solid masses, having no deep, precipitous gorges. Here frost reigns alt the year round, even in the sunny days of July. The snow, thawed by the sun, freezes at once and acquires a fine granular consistency. That is why it is so bright and sparkling.
Truly a lifeless world! We look down to the foot of Communist Academy Peak, whose gi- gantic, neve-covered sides slope down to the edge of the Fedchenko Glacier and just as our plane veers to the south-west we discern down below, on the very edge of the glacier, a building that looks like a han- gar, on the roof of which a tiny red flag is fluttering. Yes, Soviet people have brought life to this place and are living here, in inter-planetary space as it were. They have a radio-station, and we can see its slender mast.
This is a glacial- , hydro-meteorologicol observatory, the highest in the world. Much 'has , to be told about it, but our plane has already left it far behind, has flashed over the Kashal-Ayak ice-fall with its sheer half-a-kilometre drop, marking the boundary of the Fedchenko Glacier basin, and a new landscape, unlike the one we have passed, spreads out before us.
Our aeroplane cuts obliquely across a jagged and greatly dismem- bered chain, the sides of which are deeply furrowed by the tributaries of a river that flows deep down tin the gorge out of a glacier that branches off from the Kashal-Ayak. This is the Geographical Society geographical barriers are broken 45 Glacier, and the'niver is called the Vanch, We ar-e flying over the Vanch Range, We shall now have to cross row after row of other gigantic, rugged ranges also divided iby rivers running through their equally deep gorges— the Yazgulem, Rushan and Shugnan ranges.
Their six- kilometre crests tower 3, to 3, metres tabove the narrow river valleys! We 'leave Eastern Pamir far on our left. The glaciers have melted, the moraine has gone, it has slipped to the bottom of the trough-like valleys, called glaoial troughs, along which there are always to be found rows of hills and hummocks, the remains of ancient moraine piles.
These val- leys provide pasture for large flocks and herds. There is a state farm there for breeding yaks, and the collective farmers in the Murgab Dis- trict of this region have achieved great success in developing livestock farming.
Hundreds of automobiles speed along the excellent high road which crosses the mountains from the Ferghana Valley— from Andi- zhan and the Kirghizian town of Osh— to Horog. We are flying over Western Pamir. Here the landscape is no longer of the relic type, and the glaciers here ,are of a type different from those in North-Western Pamir. They are relatively small, but clinging to the mountain sides at tremendous heights, they slope very steeply ' far down into deep, inaccessible gorges.
This is the region of the most furrowed, the most rugged, the steepest and, in some cases, perpen- dicular mountains. We are flying to Horog crossing range after range, and gorge after gorge. On the south we can 'already discern the Panj, the large frontier river, the opposite bank of which is as rocky and as steep as ours. Suddenly and unexpectedly we see a broad road cut out of the gran- ite wall.
It seems to overhang a bottomless precipice at a height of several hundred metres above a turbulent river. An automobile speeds along the road, then another, and a third. This is still the Stalin Great Pamir Highway. How the road reached here we cannot tell from the aeroplane; but here it is, and motor-cars are running along it.
We enter a gorge and descend to a lower altitude. Two Walls, two steep mountain sides— Soviet and Afghan— the two sides of the same gorge, hem us in; the roar of the engines is magnified ten- fold by the hollow echo. Ahead in the gorge at the junction of the Gunt and Shakh Dara, both of which flow into the Panj, we see a small, but very. That is Horog, the capital of Gorno-Badakhshan.
The pilot is preparing to land. We fly 'low on. It is warm again in the cabin. By mid-day tomorrow we shall be back in Leninabad, and then not bothering to save time we shall repeat our journey this time on land, by land roads, through the country almost the entire territory of which consists of mountains; of the , square kilometres constituting the area of Tajikistan only 10, square kilometres are flat. And -all that we caught distant glimpses of from the aeroplane we shall see at close hand and inspect thoroughly, in order to tell the read- er in detail how under Soviet rule Eastern Bukhara, the former bar- barous domain of the Emir of Bukhara steeped in ignorance and poverty, was transformed into the present flourishing Tajik Soviet Socialist Republic.
Russian travellers reached these valleys and moun- tains long, long ago, when they were still regarded as inaccessible. They entered the domains of the Emirs of Bukhara and of the highland feudal Shahs who, interested only in collecting taxes and dues, knew nothing about their country. Step by step, ignoring dangers and inter- dictions, these travellers gleaned crumbs of scientific knowledge about the then forbidden land of the Tajiks.
Here, in the guise of scientists, came no few foreigners, but they had different aims, which we shall deal with later. Although a talented people who in all times produced philosophers and poets, artists and natu- rally-gifted architects, the Tajik people could not study science under the rule of the Emirs. Petersburg, where he gained access to Russian culture. The outstanding individuals like Ahmad Donish and the well-known Tajik poets did not, however, conduct their activities in the sphere of the practical sciences.
Only under Soviet rule were the Tajik people able to train scientific workers educated in materialist science. The very map of Pamir was an enigma. What rivers were there, and where did they flow? Nobody knew. Even Eastern Bukhara— the domains of Karategin and Darvaz— and also the mountains of Kukhisian, right close to Bukhara, was hid- den from explorers by a veil of mystery. Access to these places was closed to scientific workers by the barbarous Emirs. Ail the exact knowledge we now possess about these peoples was acquired only recently in Soviet times, after the Tajik people had studied their history, and when every branch of science became ac- cessible to and respected by everybody in the republic.
In the thirteenth century the Venetian Marco Polo crossed. South- Eastern Pamir during his long travels. When did Russians begin to visit Bukhara? The Arabian geographical literature of the ninth and tenth centu- ries already contains considerable information about the commercial intercourse that existed between Bukhara and the Volga region.
In tsar, Fyodor Jo- hannovich sent Taishev. In tsar Mikhail Fyodorovich.. Khokhlov, who travelled via the Caspian Sea to Mangyshlak, and then - crossed the steppe to Urgench. Later ambassador Anisim Gribov twice travelled via the Caspian Sea. In Pazukhin, and irt- Vasili Daudov, went as ambassadors to Bukhara.. C b ; All these embassies returned safely, -bearing rich gifts from Bukhara: V At the end of the eighteenth century Bekchurin and Burnashev,Vas: off! Next come the members of the expedition headed by.
Some of its mem- bers fell sick with yellow fever, but the expedition pushed on to Penji- kent and from there following the mountain rivers Zeravshan and Fan Darya reached Yagnob. In ad- dition to coal they discovered in different places deposits of gold, sil- ver, copper, lead, graphite, rock salt, turquoise, saltpetre, sulphur, iron ore, blue vitriol and marble.
They brought back a very large botanical collection. Later iRhanykov published his well-known book A Descrip- tion of the Khanate of Bukhara, which was translated into many lan- guages. To this day that book is regarded as the most reliable source of information about old Bukhara. Thirty years later the famous explorer of Central Asia A. Fedchenko, and his wife, the brave Russian woman explorer Olga Fedchenko, en- tered this country from another side— from Tashkent.
After passing through the Kokand Khanate they, on July 19, , for the first time in the history of scientific exploration, saw from the crest of the Alai Range the next gigantic range, the outpost of Pamir. Fedchenko named it the Zaalai Range.
The honour of discovering the highest peak in this range, now called Peak Lenin, also belongs to Fedchenko. Fedchenko was the first to dispel the fantastic ideas about the struc- ture of the Pamir ranges which had reigned until that time. The Fedchenkos collected several thousand specimens of the fauna and flora of the regions of the Zeravshan and the mountains bordering the Fer- ghana Valley, collected ethnographical material of first-class impor- tance, and made meteorological, physical and geological surveys of the places they traversed.
They belonged to the galaxy of great Russian nineteenth century explorers of Central Asia. Iorersf' visited Pamir, and an expedition headed by the entomologist V. The expedition, however, was unable to climb up to this glacier. In Kosinenko climbed to the tongue of the glacier, but he did not succeed in going over the whole of it. After that first individual travellers and later scores' of scientific explorers visited the mountains of Tajikistan.
General naturalist expe-; ditions were followed by specialized ones. The most interesting of these were the exploration of the regions of the Hissar Range, Karategin and. Darvaz made by the botanist V. Lipsky in ; the- geological work conducted by G. Romanovsky and at the beginning of the twen- tieth century by D. Korzhenevsky; the ichthyological researches by L. Berg; the botan- ical researches by Regel, V.
Komarov and S. Korzhinskv; and the lan- guage and ethnographical studies made by A. Bobrinsky, A. Zarubin and M. Concerning many of the remote districts and those difficult of access there was no knowledge at all. Asiai however, is of enormous scientific.
The formation o! From the different and diverse deformations. From the practical point of view the exploration of the mountains of Central Asia could, and in Soviet times did, lead to the discovery of most valuable outcrops of minerals, and above ail of metals.
That is why the mountains situated in the territory of what is now Tajikistan, and which until only recently had been 'difficult of access and little explored, so strongly attracted the attention of Soviet scien- tists, who were striving to solve the theoretical problems facing the whole of world science and to find new repositories of industrial raw materials for our socialist industry. The First Five-Tear Plan could be fulfilled effectively only on the basis of complete and exact scientific knowledge.
Every department of science was dominated by shaky hypotheses and untested and often false theories. In the investigation of the mineral resources of the country Soviet science encountered theories advanced by foreigners for the purpose of retarding the industrial development of our country. Behind the curtain of these false theories,- certain foreign concession holders, before the revolution, hur- riedly mined gold in Pamir and Darvaz and smuggled it out of the country.
And hundreds of explorers who have investigated other resources proved long ago that Tajikistan in particular possesses inexhaustible sources of water power, a wonderfully fertile soil and the richest pas- tures, and a climate favourable for the cultivation of numerous industri- al crops that were unknown here in the past. The pioneers of Soviet exploration in Pamir were the geographer N. Korzhenevsky and the geologist D. They had done explo- ration work in Pamir before the October Revolution, and they made several journeys there in the years But the first big planned Soviet expedition, which set itself a whole complex of tasks, was the Pamir Expedition of , which included.
The scientific work of this expedition, in which twenty-six Soviet specialists participated, was directed by the geologist and geochemist Di Shcherbakov. The main task of the expedition was to draw a geo- graphical map and make a general survey of the unexplored regions of North-Western Pamir.
This work was directed by I. Schmidt: iy!. It entered the high. At the place where the ;Sei-Tau!. Enormous - peaks, some rising to a height of 6, metres, were discovered, pho- togfaphed,, measured and plotted on the map. It was found. It ;explored;-numerous.
They gave rise. H waualso necessary to explore the- districts of North. Shcherbakov by several 'detachments of. Difficult routes in Southern Pamir were ext : plored by geological parties under the direction oi-Q. Khabakov, E. Andreyev and other,-' young scientific- specialists. One of the major tasks. Pavlovsky, now. Collective and state farms arose in the republic -and increased in number. The fir6t'cottpn-ginhing: mills were set up. Soviet people not only threw doubt on the inaccessibility of the mountains, but proceeded to build roads in them, for ihe tinie being in Central Tajikistan.
In the towns of the republic the 'first special, colleges, institutes, experimental stations and other scientific. Hundreds 'and thousands of peasants joined the Communist Party, or the Young Communist league, entered the collective, farms, went to work in industrial enterprises, went to school to learn, all prompted by the desire to master and develop the natural wealth of their country.
And aid this' meant that the' might of Soviet Tajikistan was. Among the objects of attack by these traiderd wefe'the. Soviet scientific expeditions. Cut off in the wild moun- tains; and valleys from inhabited centres, having no communication ; 'With' : ;anybb'dy,' '. The enemy' did not, of course, succeed in annihilating our scientific, workers, or in forcibly closiing to Soviet science the path to exact and fruitful knowledge to be used to promote the building of socialism.
Ail that, which only recently the Soviet ge- plogistsandgeochemistshad regarded as probabilities, assumptions, was. But- the: work conducted in this period was only a first reconnaissance in this vast;. For the purpose of directing its operations a scientific council was set up with Academician A.
Fersman as chairman. Among the directors of the expedition were some of the most outstanding scientists of our country— D. Shcherbakov, D. Naiiv- kin, E. Pavlovsky, B. Fedchenko, B. Nasledov, A. Markovsky, and others. In all, seven hundred persons took part in this expedition; of these, two hundred and ninety-seven were scientific workers.
The expedition was divided into seventy-two detachments covering the most diverse branches of science— geology, geochemistry, meteorology, hydro-ener- getics, botany, zoology, ethnography, seismology, parasitology, and others. All over Tajikistan numerous supply bases were or- ganized beforehand and stocks of food for man and beast were accumu- lated. Many of the items of equipment were not then manufactured in the Soviet Union, and in order to supply the expedition with them a number of small, hitherto non-exist- ent industries were created.
The expedition was supplied with radio stations, aircraft and automobiles. A column of six, Soviet-manufac- tured, one-and-a-half-ton trucks was to undertake a bold and perilous journey over the old Great Pamir cart track— the highest passes of which had not been mapped and on which there were no bridges cross- ing the turbulent rivers— in order to reach the eastern valleys of Pamir where operations were to be conducted.
In May this vast expedition started out from Stalinabad and Osh into the mountains along the various routes that had been mapped out. Some of the regions of Central Tajikistan had already ibeen covered by the first motor roads and passenger air lines.
Communist Party and Young Communist League organizations? It was. Nobody before had succeeded. Throughout this book we quote the; figures given- in ; ;.. The most important results. Investigating The: - mountain-. For this purpose the Tajik base of: the Academy of Sciences of the U. In the organization of the botanical department great assistance was rendered by Academician V. In the spring of a conference -was -held tat the Academy of Sci- : ences of the U. This conference was attended by several hundred.
There are such spaces An the' tropics and in, the middle latitudes— the high-raountain ice regions. The ; major- assignmeht. TKe gltiqers : situated on the edge of the Pamir highlands between the 'deserts ;of :. The Fedchenko Glacier alpnepicountirig length 79 kilometres 'and thick- :. This gigantic mass of ice is situated at a height of a thousand metres above all the surrounding valleys of the high-mountain region.
It is, indeed, the ioe-roof of Central Asia! Nearly the whole of the river Vakhsh, the rivers Vanch, Yazgulem, Bartang and others, which wholly or partly have their sources in this glacial basin, flow into the Amu Darya to be exact, the Panj, as the upper reaches of that great Asian river are called. In other words, all the upper tributaries of the Amu Darya situated in Soviet territory begin in Pamir, from its glaciers. The Amu Darya is fed by their waters, depends upon the thawing of these vast masses of ice.
The significance of the Amu Darya for the entire national econ- omy of the Central Asian republics is self-evident. Needless to say, a detailed exploration of its sources was most essential. The basin of the Fedchenko Glacier is a vast reservoir of water power. It would have been impossible to exploit this power, to build hydro-electric stations and irrigation systems, or to develop the growing of cotton and other crops, if the behaviour of this reservoir had not been first ascertained.
Here, on the glaciers, clouds form, wind, snow-storms and rain arise. If early frost kills the cotton crops in the hot valleys of Central Asia, if the rivers cease to flow and their beds dry up, if fierce gales tear the leaves from the mulberry-trees, if the turbid forces called forth by heavy rain flood the wheat fields with a thick, yellow ooze, if a thousand other misfortunes of this kiind occur, who is to blame for it first of all?
The ice on the mountain heights which fights the sun. The phenomena which occur in the atmosphere of Pamir are amazing and enigmatic. In the East Pamir desert of Markansu sand-storms sud- denly anise like those in the Sahara. On the river Muuk-Su dust-storms suddenly arise and stir up solid walls of dust which rise to a kilometre or two over the valley. Consequently, no part was to weigh than.
The bare observatory. The observatory had to be assembled at a height of 4, metres, on a glacier, under inhuman conditions. It had to be firmly built, conven- ient, supplied with electric light, equipped with most complicated instruments and meet all human wants. Soviet people built such an observatory. During the whole of the summer and autumn of caravans moved to the building site, forcing turbulent rivers, crossing gigantic ice cracks, hummocks and formless masses of moraine, undaunted by avalanches, rock-falls, hurricanes, blizzards, biting frost and the scorching sun.
The mountaineers cut steps in the ice and built bridges across the cracks, some a half a kilometre deep. A fiat -crag overlooking the edge of the glacier was chosen for the site. There tents were put up, and booths to house the meteorological instruments: thermographs, hydrographs, evaporators, vanes, rain gauges, barographs, actinometers, snow gauges, heliographs, and nephoscopes.
Alongside the observatory was built. The builders lived on the ice, and the ice moved, thawed, cracked. At night, when the frost contracted the ice masses, the glacier cracked in all directions. The cracks opened instantaneously and unexpectedly, sometimes within the expedition camp.
To fall down one of those cracks meant disappearing for ever. At dawn the magnificent sun rose from behind the mountains and its rays, penetrating the frost, thawed the snow. Gigantic avalanches rushed downwards, hissing threateningly, sweeping away everything that lay in their path.
Rock-falls broke the mountain siience with a terrific roar. In the day-time melting ice boulders somersaulted and breaking into pieces hurtled into the ice cracks with a melodious sound. The sun scorched hands and faces. To go without yellow spectacles meant certain blindness. The dry wind cracked the skin on lips and cheeks and it peeled off in strips. There was. To remain; on ' i the glacier longer, might have been fatal for the builders. It was decided, t.
Towards, the end of. November the work in the main was completed, but frightful. All the moreb valuable, Ihrmefore, - is the work performed by the staff of the Fedchenko Glacial Observatory. In conjunction with this observatory a whole network of.. At the present time the problems of the relation between the Pamir Mountains and the Tien Shan are in a new phase of study con- ducted by the most outstanding geologists and geochemists in our country— D.
Nalivkin, D, Shcherbakov, V. Nikolayev, A. Markovsky, and hundreds of other theoreticians and practical workers. The successes achieved in botanical research were equally striking ' and important for the development of agriculture and certain branches of industry, lit was found that the flora of Tajikistan contained as many as 4, species of wild and cultivated plants, about two-thirds of the total known flora of Central Asia as a whole. Many of the species found in Tajikistan have never been met with in other places.
In those and subsequent years scientific-research work in Tajikistan was conducted to an increasing degree at permanent centres. The Tajikistan base of the Academy of Sciences of the U. Pavlovsky is an Honorary Member. The scientific institutions of the Academy of Sciences of the Tajik S.
The aim of the intense work that is conducted in these institutions is to promote the building of communism. Before any practical measure is undertaken in Tajikistan it is thoroughly studied and worked out in the scientific institutions of the republic. New sources of raw materials must be found for the mining plants which are already working in full swing or are in course of construc- tion everywhere!
Industry must be supplied with mineral fuel! It id necessary to ascertain whether the vast areas of land irrigated for the first time for cotton-growing will prove to be saline! Experiments must be made in non-irrigated cotton-growing, tree planting and fruit- growing on the dry mountain slopes!
Places must be found where the vast flocks and herds can graze in the winter! Local cattle must be crossed with Swiss cattle, and local goats with the Angora breed! Vac- cines must be produced; cultivated plants must be protected from insect pests! All this is done primarily by the institutes of the Academy of Sci- ences-— the geological, chemical, botanical, livestock, zoological and par- asitological, soil science, land reclamation and irrigation institutes; the cotton-growing, energetics, and economics departments; the Stalinabad and Pamir Botanical Gardens, the Vakhsh Soil and Land Reclamation Station, the Afforestation Station and other experimental stations.
New detailed geobotanical maps have already been drawn of the territories that are rich in pastures. Fruits '. In the western valleys. The astronomical observatory has made over , obser- vations of the variable stars, and has published more than ' scientific. The Institute qi Language and Literature has published dictionaries and has collected': a rich stock of folklore. The Institute of History, Archaeology and Ethno- graphy is studying monuments of material culture of world 'importance and precious ancient manuscripts.
The Department of Philosophy is studying problems of communist education. Tn the Academy of Sciences and other- scientific institutions, and in', the higher educational establishments';' there is a' total dLover six-hun- dred scientific workers, of whom about Thirty are Doctors' of Science and about a hundred.
Among the members of the Academy are B. Gafurov, Doctor of Historical Sci- ences, who by his work A History of the Tajik People and other works lias made a valuable contribution to our knowledge of the past history of Central Asia; and Sarajon Yusupova, the first woman in Tajikistan to receive the degree of Doctor of Geological-Mineralogical Sciences. Among the Corresponding Members of the Academy are the philosopher A. Bogoutdinov, the biologist G. Aliev, the economist I.
Rakhimov and the writer S. Many of 'them— Doctors and Masters of Science —are directors of higher educational and other scientific institutions. All of them received their education in Soviet schools and colleges, and all of them are working in close co-operation with the Russian scien- tists who have devoted their scientific knowledge to Tajikistan and have helped many of them in their studies. The scientific works of the Tajik scientists are published in The Bulletin regularly issued by the Academy of Sciences, and in book form.
That is how the miracle was performed! And this miracle is one of the triumphs achieved by the Lenin- Stalin national policy, which has raised the culture of the free and talented Soviet peoples of the East to an immeasurable height. Today Tajikistan, with its highly- developed industry and agriculture, with its own.
A small town has sprung up in the. In the factories there are bhovver ; baths. The latter not only provide medi- but also -take preventive measures— for. It is not these adobe ruins that determine the appearance of the present administrative Centre of the region. The new luxuriant orchards belonging to city organizations and the vast, millionaire collective farms envelop the old city on three sides and in many places penetrate its precincts.
Nearly every inhabitant now has a small orchard, vineyard and melon patch in his backyard, watering them with water draw from recently-dug wells or irrigation ditches. Already entire districts have lost all semblance of what they were in the past.
Shady avenues, attractive shop windows, the striking colours of the new, well-designed houses, the cinema theatres, the lawns and flower beds laid out in every open space, the water running in the concrete irrigation ditches, the radio loud-speakers, the open windows of libraries, schools and colleges, the clicking of type-writers in offices, the book-stalls, the ice-cream and cool-drink fountains at all the street corners, the flower-sellers everywhere in the streets, the res- taurants, theatre posters, the swish of the motor tyres of innumerable automobiles, thousands of bicycles darting hither and thither, the bright- coloured silk dresses worn by women and the white tussore suits of men, the bright electric lamps that light up the city at night— such is the scene Leninabad presents today.
Arbas, or bulloek-oarts, are more and more rarely seen in the main streets. Their journey usually ends at the old bazaar, but even there they hinder the traffic of the collective- farm motor trucks. Adobe is giving place to asphalt and stone — polished marble, rough granite and diabase, tiles, corrugated iron and ornamental, brightly- tinted plaster mouldings.
There is only one mosque in the city that deserves attention as a work of art, namely, that at the tomb of the Sheik of Maslakhetdin, now converted into a Museum of Regional Studies. This , artist worked for three years ornamenting the walls of the Leninabad Silk Combine and is well known to everybody in Leninabad. The museum contains not only relics of the past in the shape of fragments of ancient pottery and a collection of rude agricultural im- plements, but also samples of the goods produced today by local industry: silk fabrics, fashionable clothes and foot-wear, machines, canned fruit, and a large assortment of other products of the light and food industries.
There are many good medical institutions in the city: a physical therapy hospital, a malaria station, a night sanatorium for factory workers. There are numerous kindergartens and nurseries. The city has an adequate water-supply. The citizens take pride in the blocks of new dwelling-houses that have been built, and in the new motor-repair works and other plants.
A new central square is being built in the city to be called ''Moskva. On the Syr Darya, the embank- ments of which are being encased in granite, a river stadium will soon be opened. The main streets will be covered with asphalt and electric trams will run along them. Thus, day after day, the face of the city of Leninabad is changing, ,, e , ace 0!
Thus a beginning was made, and in the first year of the First Five- Year Plan period industry in Tajikistan began to develop at a rapid rate. In Khojent a canning plant, a winery and a silk-weaving mill were built. By they were already working in full swing. Simultaneously national cadres of workers were trained. An example of how industry developed, how those cadres grew, and what they achieved, is provided by the Leninabad Silk Combine, and by the other industrial enterprises in Leninabad.
As regards the whole of Tajikistan, in the last twenty years alone, gross industrial output increased more than fold, and compared with , the number of industrial workers increased fold. Before the revolution Khojent was, a. Today, however, Lenin- abad, the administrative centre of the Leninabad Region, is a big centre of industry and culture. Of the entire population of the Khanate, one half of one per cent was Iterate, and those literates were the mullahs and official clerks, Not a single newspaper or book was published.
A town of mosques and mullahs, Khojent, like the other towns in what is now Tajikistan, lived strictly according to the laws of the Shariat. Women in particular dragged out a miserable existence; they were bereft of all human rights. Casting off tjie paranja, detesting their slavery, even running away from home, the women of Khojent, like those all over the republic, boldly went to school, and to work in Soviet offices and factories.
Women joined the Communist Party and the Young Communist League; they became chairmen of local Soviets, school-teachers and judges. The local Regis- trars Offices resembled the headquarters of fighting units, for it was here that the despotic adherents to the old marriage customs first met with resistance. All the reactionaries rose against the new law. Women who cast off the paranja were insulted and beaten; there were many cases of brutal murder.
By means of slander and intimidation the reactionaries tried to prevent women from taking an active part in economic and public life. For those who Khn? UVA" 7 :. There are hundreds' of women doctors, engineers and technicians. The Great Patriotic War. This, division, fought in ihe mountains of Svanetia and in the plains of North Caucasus. By the. Soviet;' Union. For example, Tuichi Erjigitov blocked the embrasure of an, enemy machine-gun emplacement with his body. Saidkul Turdyev, a commander of a machine-gun company, stepped into the place of his fallen battalion commander and, in the course of the day, led the battalion in counter-attacks six times.
He was killed, but! Tajikistan provided an enormous- number of horses for the Soviet cavalry. The Tajik people sent gifts to the. The -people gladly did all in their power- to achieve victory;. Oh, the proud soul the Sultan does not fear, Its dread of chains it has forgotten, Of dungeons it is not afraid — Other visitors in the tea-house recite the poems of Mayakovsky and Hails, of Pushkin and Tvardovsky.
The sun has set. The leaden and silvery hue of the river changes to pink, reflecting the colour of the clouds floating over it. But this lasts only an instant; the river turns grey again, as if unable to retain the -rosy tint.
The mountains which had only just been splashed with pink and violet are now uniformly grey and have almost merged with the grey background of the eastern sky. The people in the tea-houses, or those leaning over the balustrades of lattice-work pavilions, enjoy the coolness that blows from the river.
From a grove of trees comes the whir of a cinema projector. Dancing begins at a near-by dancing ground and the calm strains of a waltz are wafted through the park. From the billiard pavilions comes the click of billiard balls. Sand crunches under the feet of the promenaders in the leafy avenues, The sound of happy voices continues until late in tho night. After the first world war, in the period when the Basmachi ravaged the country, hardly any cotton was sown; in the cotton-crop area amounted to only hectares!
In the first collective farms and state farms were organized in Central Asia, In the following year collective farms were organ- ized in Tajikistan. By the crop area in the republic had grown to over , hectares. R, These collective farms were the first to plant this variety of cotton after the experiments made in South Tajikistan by the Agronomist Artyomov shortly before that.
In recent years Tajikistan became one of the leading republics in the development of cotton growing in the Soviet Union. In it rose to first place among the cotton-growing republics for yield per hectare, and it holds that place to this day.
As regards gross crop, it holds sec- ond place. Cotton yield per hectare in Tajikistan is now more than five times what it was in Twenty years ago the Soviet Union held fifth place among the cot- ton-growing countries for gross cotton output.
In the achievements of this the col- lective farmers of Tajikistan undoubtedly played la considerable part. The Soviet cotton-growers obtain yields per hectare larger than in any other cotton-growing country in the world. In Tajikistan there are many collective farms which harvest forty and more centners of high-grade cotton per hectare. This is due to the general development of the country during the past years.
At the pres- ent time all the cotton fields of the republic are planted exclusively with high-grade, Soviet-bred seed, and nearly half of the cotton-crop area is planted with fine-staple varieties. In some collective farms the yield per hectare of medium-staple cotton is astonishing— sixty and sev- enty centners, and in some places even more. The Tajik collective farmers have not only become advanced cotton-growers; they play an active part in public affairs.
They have learnt the art of state adminis- tration, and together with the whole of the Soviet people they are con- sciously and steadily leading their flourishing republic to communism. That canal was named the Stalin Great Ferghana Canal. Ac- cording to former standards, the mere planning of such an operation was calculated to take five years. The canal irrigates about seventy thousand hectares of waterless steppe.
Its main artery runs for two hundred and seventy kilometres parallel with the mighty river which, however, is almost useless for irrigation purposes and by the will of the Soviet peo- ple flows into numerous sluices to provide water for the land lying at a lower level.
The entire territory between the canal and the Syr Darya was formerly a lifeless desert, but after it became a rich oasis, spreading on both sides of the border between Uzbekistan and Taji i- stan. There hundreds of new collective farms sprang up.
We shall describe the Stalin and Voroshilov Collective Farms in. Gozion, Ok-Aryk, Unzhi and other kishlaks, each consisting of 'a, score ; or two of wretched adobe hovels, and also clay-built, but rich houses of- the local beys and ishans. Soon after quite a number of small col- lective farms sprang up around it.
Others formed. Molotov Collective Farm, and others again formed -the Voroshilov Collective. At the Stalin and Voroshilov Collective Farms every family has its own house, barns, a piggery, a fruit-drying shed and other farm build- ings, In the barns there are tons of produce received in return for work performed in the collective-farm fields: sacks of rice, wheat, almonds, raisins and dried apricots; piles of melons, water-melons and apples; meat, wine, sugar, jars of jam, etc.
Every family has its own melon patch, vineyard and orchard; it has cows, sheep, goats and numerous poultry. In one year alone, the members of the Stalin Collective Farm received as part of their income from the farm seven hundred sheep and goats. The adobe huts are almost a thing of the past. Most of the collective farmers live in well-appointed houses with many separate rooms with large windows. The houses are set in shady gardens planted with fruit- trees, through which cool irrigation ditches run.
In front. The rooms are carpeted and fur- nished with city furniture, radio sets and gramophones. Electric stoves, kettles and flat-irons are in common use. Abundance fills every home. The wardrobes and clothes chests are crammed with velvet, atlas and silk' clothing.
In the niches in the walls atlas bedquilts are piled right up to the ceiling, and there is enough crockery to serve a meal for the entire population of the kishlak at one sitting. When the farmers go visiting neighbouring collective farms they ride on magnificently harnessed horses, or in finely upholstered automo- biles. As is the custom, every visitor brings his host a gift— a gown, a skull-cap, a girdle, or a silk dress-length for the hostess. And there will be enough plov rice and mutton , wine, raisins and fresh fruit for all.
There will certainly be music all the evening, , and among the visitors there will certainly be some artist friends who will entertain the company. In both collective farms there are cinema theatres and hotels. The Stalin Collective Farm has two large central recreation clubs and sev- enteen field brigade clubs.
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